FEATURE 02 Once again, facing the things I like

When it came to military clothes, it was the 6 pocket military pants. I remember how I used to wear them with a white polo or a navy sweater.

One time, when I was looking through the clothes I had made in the past, I realized that the jungle shirt was something that I had been constantly making since the start of the brand in ’96. In the American movies that I used to blankly watch when I was young, the unique American life where military surplus items were somewhat everyday items was shown, such as the BDU shirt in E.T., and the M-65 in Kramer vs. Kramer, Serpico, and Taxi Driver; I also felt a difference in the culture how it was normal for kids to be wearing pants that adults would wear, and that was something really cool to me.

Depending on the times, I feel the sizes worn become slimmer, wider, or even chopped; the MILL series was made in a sizing that I decided was it, by thoroughly going over and facing once again the things I liked.
Another thing, was how I came about the idea of carefully remaking what I was curious about when I was younger. Since your body is not built yet and slimmer when you are young, if you wore US military clothes without thinking much about it, oftentimes the image ended up being different from what you thought. You wanted that crisp and three-dimensional silhouette to appear when you wore it. When thinking hard about what it was that I longed for, I realized that it was not the details, but it was the silhouette. For tops, the undulations to appear, even on a slender body. For pants, the bunching of the hems to be architectural.

Military clothes were originally made to work with various races and sizes, so character shows no matter who wears it; conversely, the more you modify it from there, the more it limits who will wear it. The former is what I decided on for the basis of MILL.

Since I have been experimenting with the forms and fabrics for over 20 years now, I have concluded that I should first continue on making these 6 styles. I have no plans to change the silhouette, but the olive drab color will change each season. I guess it will be like the variances in the manufacturing lot you see in American military clothing. I think just that is good enough.

MILL-65 / JACKET. NYCO. SATIN

The M-65 is such a jacket where if you have an idea of how you are going to wear it, it will leave a unique and strong impression. The many details are also characteristic of it; especially the epaulettes are a thing where it might seem more wearable without them, since you will not have the broad-shouldered military general-like feel, but without these epaulettes, it will not be an M-65. Attention was given to the drape around the shoulders, and a supple but crisp-feeling cotton nylon sateen fabric was chosen, so it would create a silhouette with character, no matter who wore it. These are made in not only olive drab, but also black; I remember how the New York hip hop guys of the 90s used to wear them. Nas and Fat Joe used to wear a black M-65 a lot.

MILL-65 / TROUSERS. NYCO. SATIN

Since they are based off of cold weather over pants, the M-65 cargo pants have an even wider silhouette. Just like the jacket, a supple cotton nylon sateen fabric is used, and the 2 pleats at the knees create rough wrinkles for a nice three-dimensional feel. Regarding cargo pants, I have an impression of New York skaters in the 90s wearing them. Unfortunately, I was not influenced at all by the movie Kids, but I felt there was an urban feel to wearing cargo pants while skating in the city. Something not flashy, just skating in daily clothes while listening to hip hop. I think a GAP anorak with some Nikes was all you needed.

MILL JUNGLE LS / SHIRT. NYCO. RIPSTOP

The jungle shirt has always been made ever since I started WTAPS. I wanted to modify it by adding something, to be something that could not be found elsewhere, so I chose ripstop fabric. The early model had ribbed cuffs. Now that 20 plus years have gone by, the ones made now have a shape close to the original, made of a cotton nylon ripstop fabric that was created with a focus on crispness. Maybe ripstop is mainly made of only cotton threads, but a nylon blend material was made so it could be worn properly with undulations appearing, even on a slender body. The cuffs are not ribbed, for a natural pleat on the sleeve if adjusted. A nice silhouette to appear when worn. Perhaps, I was able to finally find a piece of clothing like this, since I kept making many things without ever getting tired of it.

MILL JUNGLE / TROUSERS. NYCO. RIPSTOP

6 pocket pants with Air Jordan 1s. 6 pocket pants even for Vans hi-tops. Wearing them with the cuffs bunched up like this has been cool since way back when. A time where you would change up even how you wore your pants, like wearing larger ones on purpose, wearing them tapered with the cuffs tight, and maybe having your socks pulled up over that. It is also nice when you put something in the cargo pockets and they bulge out nice. I have also paid attention to this bulging, using the same ripstop fabric as the jungle shirt. This can be said for the other buttons also; MILL uses our original branded buttons flipped over. This may be a small thing, but I wanted to give it a more anonymous, more uniform-like feel.

MILL BUDS LS / SHIRT. COTTON. SATIN

If the jungle shirt is considered gear, then maybe the military shirt would be considered lifestyle. It seems strange for a type of military clothing to have a lifestyle feel, but I think there are times when it is more fun to wear such in a way so it does not look so. This fabric has thickness to it with a characteristic rustle, and three-dimensional wrinkles stand out easily. But, I feel those wrinkles constitutes what can be called everyday clothing. Based on a cotton satin shirt from around the 1950s, the faded feel is expressed with a Sulphur dye treatment. Constructed simply and appropriately with a single stitch. I think it is just right to wear this as a slightly heavy shirt that is olive drab in color, instead of thinking of it as military clothing.

MILL BUDS / TROUSERS. COTTON. SATIN

The baker pants made of the same sateen as the military shirt, that is firm yet pliable, to create a nice silhouette. The way baker pants are worn, or the way they look, change depending on the waistline. I feel the back pockets tend to look well on people with larger hips, but even if you do not have larger hips, you can wear them in a nice silhouette if you can find the height you wear it at, because of the three-dimensionality of the back pockets. These are the predecessor to the jungle pants, and they are like physical training uniforms for recruits, so they are easy to move in with roomy thighs. These pants are also not gear, they are for the normal everyday life. They only look like regular trousers, if you wear them with something like navy Vans Eras and a white shirt.

Interview&Edit : TAMIO OGASAWARA