category: Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales 39th round "British stuff"

So, the same type of weather continues.
The temperature compared to last year is 3.3℃ more for the highs, and a 4℃ difference for the lows.
It is so hot.
On the other hand, it makes you think winter is going to get real cold.
Sneakers or sandals for summer.
Boots for winter.
This is the usual setup for my feet.

This round is about the boots.
We collaborated with DR. MARTENS for this season’s WTAPS collection.
The item is a standard in my wardrobe, the lace up boots.


At a glance it may seem like the usual 8 hole, but with the help of Andrew and DM Japan, we were able to finish this with geeky specs.
The last used is of the vintage model 1460 and available in 2 colorways of Oxblood and Black.
The toe is not tilted up too much and a not too flat silhouette gives a pleasant and smart appearance.
The binding not found on 10 holes is brown, the welt (midsole) is vintage brown, the welt stitching has been changed from the usual yellow single stitch to a black chain stitch, and the inside is full beige leather.
Shoe laces were spec’ed brown for the Oxblood model.
And also only for the Oxblood, the trademark DR. MARTENS pull tab has been changed to a brown based pull tab.
Finally, and most importantly, these boots were made in the first and oldest DR. MARTENS factory in Northampton, England, which has been around since the 60s. Available in stores at the end of October, just a little off ahead.
Please have a good look at these obsessively spec’ed boots.

These are the first 8 holes for me.
They wear nice compared to 10 holes, and compliment shorts well.
There was a shoot recently for COOL, which will go on sale September 24th, where there is a feature with me wearing them.
Please have a look at this also.


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Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales/38th round Chester Jacket Part II

Continued from the previous entry.

Next time the thought becomes to “dress to impress” and at this timing if you show the ever opinion changing youth the below pic, they will agree no doubt.
No one can touch the Blues Brothers Jake and Elwood in their black suits. Totally showing character. This is the example to go by.


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Not. The bad boy styling of Jake and Elwood should be kept only in the image; when you are going to impress, you have to be sharp.
Let me use the word “point(s)” for the areas needed to impress.
In other words, if you are not on “point” it ends up being “wack”.
Without considering the “points”, you will just become another Blues Brothers cosplay.
That is not the purpose so it is “wack”.

Please look at the above pic closely one more time. You should be able to see the only “point”. The #1 “point” is how it flows with the body line. Size matters, of course. The fine line between the suit wearing you or you wearing the suit is very important. There is no such thing as what kind of body looks better or not. I feel the reason behind the Blues Brothers’ suits looking cool is no doubt the gap between the character and formal wear, but also their sizing.

Originally it seems suits were born as order made clothing, but in modern times most are usually ready made suits. Something not only akin to suits, but to make something your own, the quickest way is to first know thyself. In the case of suits, this will be your body shape. If you can physically wear it, then the rest will be adjustments. Just like how it is with any other clothing on the market, the fact is despite wearing the same piece, there is going to be a variance in appearance because of each individual’s body shape. But in the case of a suit, the line is very apparent so weak points appear easier.
So all you have to really do is adjust the visible weak point(s). Nothing complicated, I feel that size is the most important “point”.
Another “point” I would like to emphasize is the need for flair to bring out character from this uniform-like clothing. The shape of the lapel or is it wide or narrow, is the V zone deep or shallow, cutaways or not, where the vents are or not, trim material or not, is the inside stylin’? (pockets, lining) and by looking at these parts, one can start to see the background culture of the suit.

So much for the long intro, here is “Chester”. The suit from this season. The standard slim silhouette WTAPS suit, but this season it is a tad dressy. The pants are not pictured but they are included in this setup; a slim type using the same cool feeling 60% cotton/40% hemp material as the jacket. One of a jacket’s characteristics, the peaked lapel, usually emphasizes a straight line creating a traditional image, but the line WTAPS paint is slightly milder giving a calm and steady impression. Single breasted and not too deep, not too shallow. 2 buttons are placed so the lapel creases beautifully when the top is buttoned. Authentically spec’ed down to the surgeon’s cuffs.

The touches of accent reflect the UK subculture background which this was inspired from with velvet trimmed pocket flaps, change pockets and side vents, a wide shaped cutaway, several pockets and pen holders on the interior; lots there creating fun, but like I previously mentioned, size is most important. It is essential for the suit to show its beautiful lines when standing bringing out the best in us men.


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Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales/38th round Chester Jacket Part I

There is something that I have pondered since childhood.
And that is “What is a suit?”

Until recently I did not feel any form of fascination towards suits. I think there are many people who feel the same way.
Nowadays there is a constant of attractive casual wear to express one’s self and for the youth who want to show style (individuality), the suit which appears completely bland at a glance, may seem simply like a uniform out of the boundaries of interest.
That is why I could not grasp the factors of what is good, and what is cool? about it, and this was something not out of choice.

In our times, suits were “that name brand” showing the way of the DC brand generation.
It was an age where reassurance was sold with the suit as the brand said “this is IN so it is OK”. The way of the suit has a long history giving off an aura “it is too late to ask”. With this combination, one cannot ask what is good and what is cool, nor will someone tell you. That is why when selecting a suit the fear lingers of possibly “someone pointing at you behind your back”.

This is not so in the world of casual wear. It is of no concern. It does not matter how dressed down you may be since that is a form of style (individuality) which may be a trend within you so there is absolutely no worry. “This is my way” is how it is.

But in the case of a suit this does not flow, it is from the royal road of fashion protected by a strong tradition. It will not be tolerated. The people in the know will be quick to show their disapproval.
However if what is good and what is cool cannot be conveyed to the youth taking on the next generation, even the world class fabric toting luxury brand item cannot gain the support of the youth; no matter how much knowledge spit by the suit devoted geezers who have issues with casual, a gap and separation is created by a generation.

That is why even I have not been able to ask, and I am still clueless to the factors of what is considered cool. However the time will come where you will definitely need to wear one. And when this time arrives, you cannot go about flaunting your usual style. The youth will cower and adorn the safe recruit suit but end up blending in with the masses; thinking about how they have been able to floss on the daily, there has to be a definite feel of frustration.

But this frustration is the catalyst to create a first time interest in this subject.
And next time will be “dress to impress”.
Yes, next time is payback time.

To be continued in Part II.


Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales/37th round “Multi purpose”

Personally I like items that are specific for their purpose
and find interest in how they are well made.
It is also fun how when you get that special feeling from
owning it and to be able to use it.
Tools are especially so and how they are made for one purpose only from the start; I find it “gracious” how their only role is to serve that
and that in itself is plenty cool.
Every season I struggle to find how I can incorporate
this “graciousness” into making clothing.

In clothing when you end up making the likes of “purpose specific”
the egoism seems too strong
but at the same time
if you focus too much on “multi purpose”
they kind of end up like cheap useful goods.
I think about many things how in creating clothing
this becomes wasted.

But
feeling how I want to make stoic items with a specific purpose
I end up making them intolerantly.
Since my specialty in clothing is creating “daily town wear”
I put into it my knowledge fully that I have
although it does not quite go as far as something for pro use only.
Among all of this, one of my favorites is
the square nylon made poncho called the A-Frame
which is like sheets with a hole cut in the middle
where you stick your head through and throw on to cover yourself.
The recent models have plastic snap buttons on both sides
to hold it down
but previous models were not plastic
and used a combination of metal snap buttons and eyelets.
Using the holes in the eyelets it became a sleeping bag by
fixing a military surplus quilt mat to it and a simple shelter
can be made also with a pole and some parachute chord.
Minor changes were made because
for town wear use, the above use was unnecessary;
the eyelets were removed so it could be used as a picnic mat,
the cold metal snap buttons were changed to
small plastic snap buttons,
and if you really needed to, you could add your own eyelets.

I think perfection is impossible even for an items made with pursuit.
I believe items that remain will be a design
that has somewhat of a margin for time and purpose.
To not over do and not under do
may be the “graciousness” I wrote about earlier.

For reference’s sake, when I made a shelter out of it
the shape ended up being just like the letter
A of the alphabet
so the name A-Frame derived from this.

This is just an aside
when I used to ride around a Jeep Wrangler with the top off
when it rained, I used a poncho instead of a bikini top.


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Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales/36th round “Issued items”

This is the new note pad
issued only to our staff
At the beginning of the New Year.


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Making notes and files
is the very basic of our job
so depending on the use
various styles are used as “tools”.


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What was issued this time, is called the “PRESS PAD”
small at 140 x 90
fitting the chest pocket of WTAPS work shirts
used by press
with yellow pages like a legal pad
characteristic with 1 red vertical line.


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This helps out when making an index
for things written across.
On the cover there is a rivet like those used in denim
as a “crest” 
and on the 3rd page
there is a pocket to put stuff in
like clippings, pieces, leafs, and of course business cards.


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Other than this, I use a same size blue Moleskin with no spine
and a large A4 size legal pad.
Using depending on situation like for to do’s
and jotting down stuff the easy to carry small size,
and for meetings needing a visual tool the A4 size.


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