April 2010

Title: Stuff tales/38th round Chester Jacket Part II

Continued from the previous entry.

Next time the thought becomes to “dress to impress” and at this timing if you show the ever opinion changing youth the below pic, they will agree no doubt.
No one can touch the Blues Brothers Jake and Elwood in their black suits. Totally showing character. This is the example to go by.


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Not. The bad boy styling of Jake and Elwood should be kept only in the image; when you are going to impress, you have to be sharp.
Let me use the word “point(s)” for the areas needed to impress.
In other words, if you are not on “point” it ends up being “wack”.
Without considering the “points”, you will just become another Blues Brothers cosplay.
That is not the purpose so it is “wack”.

Please look at the above pic closely one more time. You should be able to see the only “point”. The #1 “point” is how it flows with the body line. Size matters, of course. The fine line between the suit wearing you or you wearing the suit is very important. There is no such thing as what kind of body looks better or not. I feel the reason behind the Blues Brothers’ suits looking cool is no doubt the gap between the character and formal wear, but also their sizing.

Originally it seems suits were born as order made clothing, but in modern times most are usually ready made suits. Something not only akin to suits, but to make something your own, the quickest way is to first know thyself. In the case of suits, this will be your body shape. If you can physically wear it, then the rest will be adjustments. Just like how it is with any other clothing on the market, the fact is despite wearing the same piece, there is going to be a variance in appearance because of each individual’s body shape. But in the case of a suit, the line is very apparent so weak points appear easier.
So all you have to really do is adjust the visible weak point(s). Nothing complicated, I feel that size is the most important “point”.
Another “point” I would like to emphasize is the need for flair to bring out character from this uniform-like clothing. The shape of the lapel or is it wide or narrow, is the V zone deep or shallow, cutaways or not, where the vents are or not, trim material or not, is the inside stylin’? (pockets, lining) and by looking at these parts, one can start to see the background culture of the suit.

So much for the long intro, here is “Chester”. The suit from this season. The standard slim silhouette WTAPS suit, but this season it is a tad dressy. The pants are not pictured but they are included in this setup; a slim type using the same cool feeling 60% cotton/40% hemp material as the jacket. One of a jacket’s characteristics, the peaked lapel, usually emphasizes a straight line creating a traditional image, but the line WTAPS paint is slightly milder giving a calm and steady impression. Single breasted and not too deep, not too shallow. 2 buttons are placed so the lapel creases beautifully when the top is buttoned. Authentically spec’ed down to the surgeon’s cuffs.

The touches of accent reflect the UK subculture background which this was inspired from with velvet trimmed pocket flaps, change pockets and side vents, a wide shaped cutaway, several pockets and pen holders on the interior; lots there creating fun, but like I previously mentioned, size is most important. It is essential for the suit to show its beautiful lines when standing bringing out the best in us men.


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Stuff tales

Title: Stuff tales/38th round Chester Jacket Part I

There is something that I have pondered since childhood.
And that is “What is a suit?”

Until recently I did not feel any form of fascination towards suits. I think there are many people who feel the same way.
Nowadays there is a constant of attractive casual wear to express one’s self and for the youth who want to show style (individuality), the suit which appears completely bland at a glance, may seem simply like a uniform out of the boundaries of interest.
That is why I could not grasp the factors of what is good, and what is cool? about it, and this was something not out of choice.

In our times, suits were “that name brand” showing the way of the DC brand generation.
It was an age where reassurance was sold with the suit as the brand said “this is IN so it is OK”. The way of the suit has a long history giving off an aura “it is too late to ask”. With this combination, one cannot ask what is good and what is cool, nor will someone tell you. That is why when selecting a suit the fear lingers of possibly “someone pointing at you behind your back”.

This is not so in the world of casual wear. It is of no concern. It does not matter how dressed down you may be since that is a form of style (individuality) which may be a trend within you so there is absolutely no worry. “This is my way” is how it is.

But in the case of a suit this does not flow, it is from the royal road of fashion protected by a strong tradition. It will not be tolerated. The people in the know will be quick to show their disapproval.
However if what is good and what is cool cannot be conveyed to the youth taking on the next generation, even the world class fabric toting luxury brand item cannot gain the support of the youth; no matter how much knowledge spit by the suit devoted geezers who have issues with casual, a gap and separation is created by a generation.

That is why even I have not been able to ask, and I am still clueless to the factors of what is considered cool. However the time will come where you will definitely need to wear one. And when this time arrives, you cannot go about flaunting your usual style. The youth will cower and adorn the safe recruit suit but end up blending in with the masses; thinking about how they have been able to floss on the daily, there has to be a definite feel of frustration.

But this frustration is the catalyst to create a first time interest in this subject.
And next time will be “dress to impress”.
Yes, next time is payback time.

To be continued in Part II.


Stuff tales

Title: Status

It is already April according to the calendar.
The weather is not cooperating to get warmer;
seems like every year the wait for spring is tantalizing.

Regarding the recent state of the atelier.
It is preparation time for the exhibition which we will have in May.
The overall image for the collection is fairly complete
and now it is time for detailing.
I guess it is like turning the ring and focusing to make things sharper.
At this stage of work, the pace is fast and personally I like the flow.

Being busy now instead of being busy right before the exhibition starts
is a sign that things are going smoothly
but you cannot get caught slipping.


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Naoyuki Inoue / Production
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