Title: WTAPS EX19/#11 Kan nui

In the 2009 Spring/Summer LAMF
featuring work wear and military wear
which will be released from March 20th
the sewing process of “kan nui” is used effectively.

When stitching using “kan nui” the backside of the stitch looks like
a chain so in some cases it is also called chain stitching.
There are “kan nui” specific sewing machines;
the ease of changing out the base thread helped increase production
and was widely used
in the era for mass production work wear.

Even up to now at WTAPS
the leg opening hem for the denim pants BLUES utilizes this
and this is something common;
but for places like you see in salvaged military wear
it is hard to stitch using the currently available sewing machines
so this is a time consuming process that is not done easily.

To express the characteristic feel of the shrinkage of the material
that happens from everyday wearing and washing,
we take special consideration of the underside also
which you would only see normally when putting it on.


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