March 2009

Title: Toile

I made a toile.
To say it more simply, it is a temporary stitch before creating a sampling.
Not using the actual fabric
but it is made with a thin fabric called sheeting
and we make these when we need an image for large silhouettes
or fine details.

When making something and you focus hard on one part of it
you tend to lose the whole picture.
But,
if you slack on a certain part the whole piece becomes unbalanced.
The whole piece is created by each piece combining together one by one.
The designer has to direct this process.
I guess a designer is “someone who adjusts” the process of how things go.


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Tetsu Nishiyama / Director

Title: WTAPS EX19/#11 Kan nui

In the 2009 Spring/Summer LAMF
featuring work wear and military wear
which will be released from March 20th
the sewing process of “kan nui” is used effectively.

When stitching using “kan nui” the backside of the stitch looks like
a chain so in some cases it is also called chain stitching.
There are “kan nui” specific sewing machines;
the ease of changing out the base thread helped increase production
and was widely used
in the era for mass production work wear.

Even up to now at WTAPS
the leg opening hem for the denim pants BLUES utilizes this
and this is something common;
but for places like you see in salvaged military wear
it is hard to stitch using the currently available sewing machines
so this is a time consuming process that is not done easily.

To express the characteristic feel of the shrinkage of the material
that happens from everyday wearing and washing,
we take special consideration of the underside also
which you would only see normally when putting it on.


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Yukiyoshi Shimada / Production

Title: WTAPS EX19/#10 Analog

One day after lunch
in the far end of the atelier where the patterner’s workspace is,
the designer was making a toile.

When put into words it sounds normal,
but usually the designer does not make a toile.
Because the designer’s role is to check and make adjustments to the toile.

FYI
a toile is a temporary stitching
which a patterner usually makes
creating a pattern based on a design
using a cotton material called sheeting
for the silhouette, the size and placement of pockets,
position of hems, etc. to check the whole balance.

I have seen the designer on the sewing machine several times
adjusting the hemline on pants or
sewing patches on
but making a toile was a first and it was unusual;
so actually doing this I feel that
the distance between the one giving the instructions and the one receiving
will become closer.

Since this is the case,
I am thinking about what we can do for the other end
to close the gap.

After doing this for about 90 minutes, I asked how it was and
the reply was, “I was surprised it was pretty analog.”

Analog? This made me think also.


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Yukiyoshi Shimada / Production

Title: Zine Making

Researching stuff is so much easier now compared to the past.
Just do a search on the net
and things you didn’t know or couldn’t remember instantly shows up.
But what is there is an answer someone else has given.
Answers no one knows still have to be searched for on your own.
Even with knowledge, there are things you still cannot answer.
Your own experience shines through in situations like this.
Only when a little wisdom or skill is thrown in the mix with this,
it becomes an experience you can trust.

Continuing from last week, a work shop will take place at Blackflag this week.
The theme is Zine Making.
Please take part and experience it.


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Photo by Taro Hirano


Naoyuki Inoue / Production

Title: EX18 Catalog

Fresh off the press.
Distribution will start soon.
Look forward to it!


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Tetsu Nishiyama / Director
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